{"id":784,"date":"2026-04-01T14:04:03","date_gmt":"2026-04-01T14:04:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/?p=784"},"modified":"2026-04-01T14:04:03","modified_gmt":"2026-04-01T14:04:03","slug":"gujon-versus-ancora-chimica","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/2026\/04\/01\/gujon-versus-ancora-chimica\/","title":{"rendered":"Gujon versus ancora chimica"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/mostre-inox.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-776\" src=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/mostre-inox.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"523\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/mostre-inox.jpg 523w, https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/mostre-inox-262x300.jpg 262w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 523px) 100vw, 523px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>figura 1<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/conespand.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-785\" src=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/conespand.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"349\" height=\"201\" srcset=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/conespand.jpeg 349w, https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/conespand-300x173.jpeg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 349px) 100vw, 349px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>figura2<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/ancora-chimica.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-786\" src=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/ancora-chimica.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"424\" srcset=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/ancora-chimica.jpg 600w, https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/ancora-chimica-300x212.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>In\u00a0 figura 1 avem un gujon iar in fgiura 2 avem o ancora chimica, ambele fixate in perete. Aceste elemente de fixare se folosesc si in alpinism , de exemplu pentru fixarea ancorelor. Sa incercam sa analizam avantajeje si particularitatile celor doua sisteme de fixare.<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Gujonul cu fixare mecanica<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Prin strangerea cu cheia, gujonul incepe sa iasa din gaura iar placuta din capatul gujonului luneca pe con, presandu-se de peretii gaurii. Rezulta doua forte in gujon. Forta 4 care blocheaza varful conic de perete si forta 3 care intinde axial gujonul. Forta 4 are o contrareactie de echilibrare din partea peretelui iar forta 3 apasa pe perete comprimandu-l. Pentru o fixare ferma a piesei auxiliare (urechea) de perete, cat si pentru expandarea maxima a conului, exista tendindinta de a strange cat mai puternic piulita. Astfel fortele 3 si 4 au valori foarte mari si, mai ales, PASTRATE MEREU TOT TIMPUL ! Asta are doua efecte (IN TIMP):<br \/>\na)- forta de dilatare din interior (in gaura) si de comprimare din exterior (spre perete), poate cauza (in timp) fisurarea peretelui. Asta mai ales daca fixarea este facuta langa o margine, un colt de perete (nu in mijlocul\u00a0 peretelui compact si neted).<\/p>\n<p>In plus, daca mai apar si solicitari tangentiale (variabile si repetate) asupra urechii, atunci apare un joc minuscul in jurul conului, dar care se cumuleaza in timp (slabind fixarea) si generand un joc inacceptabil.<\/p>\n<p>b)- tensiunea permanenta din axul ancorei, reprezinta un stres continuu asupra materialului, si care IN TIMP, isi pierde astfel caracteristicile de rezilienta (se deformeaza structura cristalina interna a materialului putin cate putin, dar cumulat).<\/p>\n<p>Efectul ? Surubul se reteaza pur si simplu , de regula la suprafata de contact cu peretele (unde se cumuleaza mai multi factori distructivi, inclusiv coroziunea).<\/p>\n<ol start=\"2\">\n<li>Ancora chimica<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Nu exista nici o solicitare periculoasa asupra peretelui ! Forta 1 este ZERO iar forta 2 este suportabila (strangerea in punctul 3 nu mai este critica), sau, si forta 2 este si aceasta zero, daca ancora are\u00a0 ureche incorporata din executie (sudata, matritata, etc-deci FARA piuluita-).<\/p>\n<p>Pe cale de consecinta :<\/p>\n<p>a)- peretele este total protejat iar ancora nu acumuleaza joc in fixare<\/p>\n<p>b)- axul ancorei este complet detensionat (practic are aceiasi durata de viata ca in depozit ; iar la o ancora de inox nici macar coroziunea nu mai intervine).<\/p>\n<p>Deci : o ancora de inox lipita chimic (cu ureche incorporata din executie) surclaseaza NET orice altceva (se enunta durate de minim UN SECOL de viata fara probleme)\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp; &nbsp; figura 1 figura2 In\u00a0 figura 1 avem un gujon iar in fgiura 2 avem o ancora chimica, ambele fixate in perete. Aceste elemente de fixare se folosesc si in alpinism , de exemplu pentru fixarea ancorelor. Sa incercam&hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/2026\/04\/01\/gujon-versus-ancora-chimica\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue Reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":671,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[170,169,99,168],"class_list":["post-784","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-diverse","tag-alpinism-inox-lipit-chimic","tag-ancora-chimica","tag-asigurare","tag-gujon"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/784","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=784"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/784\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":787,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/784\/revisions\/787"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/671"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=784"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=784"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=784"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}