{"id":813,"date":"2026-05-01T12:50:23","date_gmt":"2026-05-01T12:50:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/?p=813"},"modified":"2026-05-01T19:28:51","modified_gmt":"2026-05-01T19:28:51","slug":"cand-nu-se-asigura-la-ham","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/2026\/05\/01\/cand-nu-se-asigura-la-ham\/","title":{"rendered":"CAND NU SE ASIGURA LA HAM"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_814\" style=\"width: 460px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/P9211416.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-814\" class=\"size-full wp-image-814\" src=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/P9211416.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/P9211416.jpg 450w, https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/P9211416-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-814\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Undeva in Alpii Austrieci<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Un REZUMAT cu privire la asigurarea la ham in ALPINISM ar putea fi urmatorul (extras de pe net) :<\/p>\n<p>Dispozitivul de asigurare\u00a0<strong>NU se fixeaz\u0103 la ham<\/strong>\u00a0(ci direct \u00een punctul central al regrup\u0103rii \u2013\u00a0<em>fixed-point lead belay<\/em>) \u00een urm\u0103toarele situa\u021bii specifice:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Diferen\u021b\u0103 mare de greutate:<\/strong>C\u00e2nd capul de coard\u0103 este mult mai greu dec\u00e2t secundul. Dac\u0103 liderul cade, secundul ar putea fi smuls violent din pozi\u021bie sau izbit de perete\/regrupare dac\u0103 dispozitivul ar fi pe hamul s\u0103u.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Regrup\u0103ri instabile sau \u00eenghesuite:<\/strong>\u00cen locuri unde secundul nu are o pozi\u021bie stabil\u0103 (pe o br\u00e2n\u0103 \u00eengust\u0103, sub un tavan sau \u00eentr-o pozi\u021bie suspendat\u0103 inconfortabil\u0103) unde smucitura unei c\u0103deri l-ar putea accidenta.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Riscul unei c\u0103deri de factor 2:<\/strong>Dac\u0103 liderul cade \u00eenainte de a monta prima asigurare intermediar\u0103, \u0219ocul este preluat direct de regrupare. Fixarea dispozitivului \u00een ancor\u0103 protejeaz\u0103 coloana \u0219i corpul secundului de acest impact direct.<\/li>\n<li><strong>C\u0103\u021b\u0103rare pe ghea\u021b\u0103 sau teren friabil:<\/strong>Pe ghea\u021b\u0103, asigurarea direct din ancor\u0103 (adesea folosind un\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpinesavvy.com\/blog\/belaying-the-leader-with-a-fixed-point-belay\">semidinte de porc\/Munter hitch<\/a>) este preferat\u0103 deoarece permite o fr\u00e2nare mai fluid\u0103 \u0219i reduce for\u021ba de \u0219oc asupra ancorelor, care pot fi mai pu\u021bin sigure dec\u00e2t spiturile.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Traversee imediate dup\u0103 regrupare:<\/strong>Dac\u0103 liderul pleac\u0103 orizontal, o c\u0103dere l-ar trage pe secund lateral; fixarea dispozitivului \u00een ancor\u0103 men\u021bine direc\u021bia for\u021bei stabil\u0103 pe punctul central al regrup\u0103rii.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Reddit\u00a0+5<\/p>\n<p><strong>De re\u021binut:<\/strong>\u00a0Asigurarea direct din regrupare necesit\u0103 ancore\u00a0<strong>absolut solide<\/strong>\u00a0(ex. spituri\/bolturi), deoarece \u00eentreaga for\u021b\u0103 a c\u0103derii este transferat\u0103 direct \u00een acestea, f\u0103r\u0103 ca corpul asigur\u0103torului s\u0103 mai ac\u021bioneze ca un amortizor.<\/p>\n<p><em><strong>NOTA<\/strong><\/em> : As mai adauga o situatie (la cele 5 de mai sus) : <strong>* CAND SECUNDUL ESTE INCEPATOR (sau total necunoscut) !!!<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Petzl\u00a0+1<\/p>\n<h4><u>3b. Asigurare de la o ancor\u0103 de asigurare cu punct fix<\/u><\/h4>\n<p>Montarea sistemului de asigurare pe ancora de asigurare evit\u0103 riscul de a trage asiguratorul \u00een cazul unei c\u0103deri \u00een avans. Aceast\u0103 tehnic\u0103 este utilizat\u0103 atunci c\u00e2nd ancorele sunt, f\u0103r\u0103 \u00eendoial\u0103, solide. Ancora de asigurare cu punct fix este potrivit\u0103 pentru aceast\u0103 tehnic\u0103, deoarece reduce lungimea chingii care se va r\u0103sturna la oprirea c\u0103derii.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Niciun risc ca asiguratorul s\u0103 fie tras la c\u0103derea liderului: niciun risc de a lovi st\u00e2nca sau sta\u021bia de asigurare \u0219i risc mai mic de a sc\u0103pa de coard\u0103.<\/li>\n<li>Potrivit atunci c\u00e2nd exist\u0103 o diferen\u021b\u0103 semnificativ\u0103 de greutate \u00eentre alpinist \u0219i asigurator.<\/li>\n<li>Potrivit pentru porniri \u00een traversare (\u00eenc\u0103rcare lateral\u0103) sau pentru asigurare sub o surplomb\u0103.<\/li>\n<li>Asigurarea cu plumb este ergonomic\u0103 dac\u0103 ancorele de asigurare sunt pozi\u021bionate jos (aproximativ la \u00een\u0103l\u021bimea pieptului asiguratorului).<\/li>\n<li>Asigurarea este mai pu\u021bin lin\u0103 \u0219i precis\u0103: nu este potrivit\u0103 pentru parcurgerea unui traseu.<\/li>\n<li>Nepotrivit pentru asigur\u0103ri cu ancore mai pu\u021bin fiabile, \u00een special din cauza schimb\u0103rii direc\u021biei de trac\u021biune \u00een timpul c\u0103derii \u0219i a lipsei de egalizare.<\/li>\n<li>Asigurare dinamic\u0103 complicat\u0103 (posibil\u0103 doar prin alunecarea coardei \u00een sistemul de asigurare, se recomand\u0103 purtarea m\u0103nu\u0219ilor de asigurare).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><em><u>3c. Arborele de decizie<\/u><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong><u>\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026<\/u><\/strong><strong><u>.<\/u><\/strong><em><u>(a se vedea-apare mai jos-)<\/u><\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong><u>Nota : (<\/u><\/strong>La urma urmei alpinismul este un RISC ASUMAT si fiecare <strong>alege<\/strong> ramura &#8222;arborelui de decizie&#8221;\/<strong><em>organigramei<\/em><\/strong> !?!?)&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Am incheiat<em><strong> &#8222;citatul&#8221;<\/strong><\/em>&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>ASADAR :<\/p>\n<p>Explicatii AMPLE si corelate cu ANSAMBLUL situatiilor posibile, se gasesc daca doriti mai jos (nerecomandat &#8222;urcatorilor pe cartoane&#8221;) :<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.petzl.com\/PT\/en\/Sport\/Building-a-belay-anchor-and-belaying-on-a-bolted-multi-pitch-route?ActivityName=Multi-Pitch-Climbing#:~:text=Putting%20the%20belay%20system%20on%20the%20belay,flip%20over%20when%20the%20fall%20is%20stopped\">https:\/\/www.petzl.com\/PT\/en\/Sport\/Building-a-belay-anchor-and-belaying-on-a-bolted-multi-pitch-route?ActivityName=Multi-Pitch-Climbing#:~:text=Putting%20the%20belay%20system%20on%20the%20belay,flip%20over%20when%20the%20fall%20is%20stopped<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Iar ca exemplu VIZUAL, vedeti filmarea de mai jos (si cititi comentariile adaugate) :<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/reel\/822819713747296\">https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/reel\/822819713747296<\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Comentarii :<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Iata asadar un exemplu (chiar la inceputul filmarii !), de filare a capului LA PITON (pitoanele evident consolidate intre ele in REGRUPARE).<\/p>\n<p>DECI NU LA HAM!<\/p>\n<p>Capul pleaca ascendent aproape lateral spre stanga&#8230; daca secundul fila la ham, la o cadere a capului, secundul era smuls spre stanga dar blocat de autoasigurare in dreapta. Socul are tendinta de a SMULGE\/FORFECA COLOANA SECUNDULUI !!!!&#8230;. dar cand esti &#8222;alpinist de sala&#8221; (acolo te plimbi pe saltea, deci NU esti FIXAT in regrupare !!!) e mai complicat sa-ti construiesti pe loc ARBORELE DE DECIZIE (in plin perete, unde prizele nu sunt colorate).<\/p>\n<p>Cazul poate deveni deasemenea periculos pentru secund (deci cand fileaza la ham), daca capul cade si inca nu are asigurare (sau asigurarile mobile scapa) si astfel capul ajunge in cadere libera SUB nivelul secundului (la escalada, ar da de pamant fara sa afecteze secundul, dar aici esti la ALPINISM -care NU e acelasi lucru cu escalada sportiva !!!-).<\/p>\n<p>Dar, repet : fiecare este responsabil pentru viata si pentru sanatatea sa (si a coechipierilor sai !) in cazul ALPINISMULUI (care NU E SPORT !).<\/p>\n<p><strong>Iar deciziile\u2026 VA APARTIN in totalitate !<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190520_090108.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-612\" src=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190520_090108.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"492\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190520_090108.jpg 492w, https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190520_090108-246x300.jpg 246w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 492px) 100vw, 492px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190520_090216.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-613\" src=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190520_090216.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"445\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190520_090216.jpg 445w, https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190520_090216-223x300.jpg 223w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 445px) 100vw, 445px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2316.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-566\" src=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2316.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2316.jpg 450w, https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2316-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2314.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-565\" src=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2314.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"419\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2314.jpg 419w, https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2314-210x300.jpg 210w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 419px) 100vw, 419px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2318.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-568\" src=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2318.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"466\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2318.jpg 466w, https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/DSCN2318-233x300.jpg 233w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/mr1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-569\" src=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/mr1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/mr1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/mr1-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>(din timpul unor testari edificatoare&#8230;daca te duce un pic capul si nu doar &#8222;citesti etichete&#8221;&#8230;)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp; Un REZUMAT cu privire la asigurarea la ham in ALPINISM ar putea fi urmatorul (extras de pe net) : Dispozitivul de asigurare\u00a0NU se fixeaz\u0103 la ham\u00a0(ci direct \u00een punctul central al regrup\u0103rii \u2013\u00a0fixed-point lead belay) \u00een urm\u0103toarele situa\u021bii specifice:&hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/2026\/05\/01\/cand-nu-se-asigura-la-ham\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue Reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":605,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,25,100],"tags":[178,179,180],"class_list":["post-813","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-opinii","category-proceduri","category-testare-echipamente","tag-asigurare-in-alpinism","tag-asigurare-la-ham","tag-asigurare-la-piton"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/813","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=813"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/813\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":825,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/813\/revisions\/825"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/605"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=813"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=813"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adrian.cassiomontana.org\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=813"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}